But Squid Game isn’t a total anomaly. The Korean series is one chapter in a larger story with its own name and history: a seismic, ongoing shift in the global entertainment landscape known as Hallyu.

A gastronomic heir with no taste for to the pleasures of the table. A passionate young chef who cooks for just one table. And, at the heart of all of this tension, dishes as delicate as the cooks’ ...